Before your dog jumps in the lake, here’s what you need to know!

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Before your dog jumps in the lake, here’s what you need to know – temperature matters, why you need to bring fresh water and the status of algae! 

Lake temperatures?

For swimming, the ideal temp for dogs seems to be 40s-50s at the minimum for shorter durations (up to 20 mins). Here in Minnesota, our 11,842 lakes likely won’t hit warmer water until July with the north shore along Lake Superior staying in the 50s and under throughout the summer. Brisk!

(A quick check puts water temp of lakes around St. Cloud at 49˙F to 62˙F. I found the LakeMonster Map that’s a neat tool for lake temps. If you head to MN you’ll see a TON of blips marking the lakes we have!)

How can you tell if the lake is too cold?

Dip your toes in! If you can’t stand & wade into the lake for a span of time without freezing your toes off, then most likely the water is a bit to chilly for your dog (or too chilly for a long swimming session). 

Otherwise there’s an old “rule of thumb” that says air temp + water temp need to be at least 100 degrees before it’s swimmable for your dog.  So water temp of 62 + air temp of 57 = 119  – swimmable for your dog! (Brisk for you though!). Also remember that nearer to the shoreline will be warmer than beyond the dock depths in most lakes. 

Certain dogs will be more prone to being sensitive to cold water swimming. Small breeds, short-haired dogs, puppies & senior dogs all tend to be more sensitive to colder water temps. If your dog has health issues, it may be best to avoid a dip in the lake and opt for a warm kiddie pool instead.  Double coated breeds, retrievers & sporting dogs can handle a bit more cold, though they too can get chilly in brisk water the longer they are swimming.

If your dog insisting on jumping in just after the ice clears the lake in the early spring , you may want to limit their swim time (under 20 minutes) to make sure your dog doesn’t get too cold and risk getting hypothermia. 

Signs of hypothermia:

  • shivering
  • lethargy
  • stiff muscles
  • pale gums
  • lack of coordination or stumbling
  • fixed and dilated pupils
  • low breathing & heart rates
  • collapse57

After a cold swim:

  • Dry your dog with towels and get him warmed up. If you’re not at the cabin, then crank up the heat in your car to a toasty level. 
  • Once towel dried, burrito your dog in a cozy warm blanket. 
  • Offer your dog a warm drink – milk or chicken broth are good options (similar to how we sip a hot cocoa when we’re chilled)

If the shivering persists for 30-45 minutes after being dried off, wrapped up cozily & warmed with warm drinks bring your dog to the vet ASAP!

Bring fresh drinking water!

Pack a jug of water for you & your pup when you head to the lake. This ensures you both stay hydrated and your dog avoids drinking too much lake water.  Keep your dog away from stagnant water as it often contains yucky organisms that can cause diarrhea, Leptospira and kidney damage. 

With Leptospira is a bacterial infection that spreads in the bloodstream. It’s often found in stagnant water, or muddy and marshy areas frequented by wildlife.  It is transferred from infected wildlife via contact with their urine – usually found in contaminated water sources. 

There is a vaccine your dog can get but it only protects against 4 strains of Leptospira (there are a couple hundred varieties) and may only lessen the symptoms vs prevent lepto. Do research & consult your vet to see if your dog needs a lepto vaccine for swimming in the lake. (It’s a non core vaccine – I don’t recall if any of my lake loving pups ever had it.) 

The best way to avoid the yuckies – bring fresh water for you and your pup!

Blue-green algae – beware!

As our weather warms and the jaunts to the lake become more frequent there’s another element you need to be aware of: blue-green algae blooms!
 
When the weather grows hot & calm, the conditions become perfect for algae growth in Minnesota lakes. When “blooming” blue-green algae (also known as cyanobacteria) gives water a cloudy appearance that can look like pea soup, green paint or floating mats of scum. Not all species of blue-green algae are toxic, but visually telling the difference between the toxic & non-toxic is impossible. Thus it’s best to have your dog avoid swimming in the lake when the algae is blooming. 

Luckily blooms of algae in Minnesota often come and go quickly as they are dispersed by rainfall, wind shifts or cooler temperatures that disrupt the algae’s growth. 

Lifejackets – do you need one?

Not every dog is a Newfie or lab with strong swimming skills. The average dog can swim consistently for about 20 minutes before they begin to fatigue, which can lead to drowning. Adding a lifejacket into your dog’s beach time (as well as boating time) will help keep them floating in the case that they lose steam. Additionally a lifejacket is perfect for dogs who aren’t strong swimmers or just learning to swim. 

Lifejackets feature 1 or 2 handles, various points of adjustability for perfect fits and some have D rings that allow you to attach a lead to the lifejacket – you can reel in the wayward swimming pup or rein in your dog if you think they need a swimming break. 

Too bulky for the running and playing of your pup? Opt for a life vest instead!

Check out these dog life jackets! (This is an affliate link FYI)

Things to bring when headed to the lake:

  • Fresh water for you & your pup
  • Toys that float & toys that sink
  • A long lead (check the beach rules) for reeling in your pup if need be
  • Towels – pending on the size of your dog 1-5 will do the trick! Don’t forget one for you!
  • Something to provide shade (umbrella or small pop up canopy)
  • Camera for capturing the splashing adventures!
Depending on when you head to the lake, note the temperature of the sand & rocks too! Pop over to the 3 tips to keep your dog’s toes cool this summer post for more info on surface temps under tip #1! If the sand or rocks are too hot, you’ll have to either pick your pup up or navigate from the grass at the edge of the beach. 
 
When you get home, give your dog a thorough rinse to get rid of any lake funk they may have worn home. 

Before your dog jumps in the lake, here’s what you need to know:

  • Lake temperature matters!
  • Fresh drinking water is important
  • Beware of blue-green algae
  • A life jacket will come in handy
  • A visit to the lake is TONS of fun for water loving pups!
    (Bender – nope, Axle & Icey – LOVERS of the water, Mick – enjoyed splashing)

We’re in a blog ring! Next pop over to: Canberra Dog Photographer, Ina Jalil of Ina J Photography shares photos of dogs of Canberra splashing in Lake Burley Griffin.

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FAQ – Are digital images included with the session?

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The commonly (or frequently asked) question that follows most session inquiries – are digital images included with the session?

The short answer is no. 

Like prints and products, digital images are available separately from the session fee with a Classic Session or a Short & Sweet Session. You can mix and match them with EPIC pieces of wall art. Or opt to just snag the digital images themselves. 

If you do snag digital images, AWESOME! Digital images are GIANT files, “hand delivered” via Dropbox and include a print and use release that allows you to use your dog’s images as you see fit – post to social media, send to grandma, print as holiday cards – you just can’t claim you made the images or sell them! 

In short & long, no digital images are not included with the Classic or Short & Sweet Sessions!

ALTHOUGH….

There are THREE NEW sessions this year that are “all inclusive” and YES they do include digital images!

Digital Dog

Includes 5 digital images! + 15% off all prints & products!

BIG Digital Dog

Includes 10 digital images + 20% off all prints & products!

Entire Digital Dog

Includes 25 digital images + $250 print credit + 30% off all prints & products! OOH LA LA!

Similar to a Classic Session, each of the Digital Dog Sessions are up to 1.5 hours of photography time in the location (or locations) of your choice. Plus you get to pick the prints & products that are perfect & totally AWESOME for bringing your dog’s images to life in an a la carte style. 

The main difference? Digital images ARE included in these sessions!

Which session would you pick? Let’s get it on the books and make epic immortal images of your dog! Email – or pop over to the online booking & pick the perfect day!

We’re in a blog ring! Next award winning Canberra Pet photographer Ina Jalil of Ina J Photography talks about common questions asked by clients about getting a professional pet photography session done.

 
 

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Dislike for Doodles

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Doodles. Dogs with a parent of poodle and a parent of other breed – classics include cocker spaniels, labs, golden retrievers, Australian Shepherds &  Bernese Mountain dogs. They are the mecca of hypoallergenic (though no dog truly is!). Rising aggressively in popularity in the modern years, the first labradoodle arrived in the 1980s, while the cockapoo has been in society since the 1960s. 

There are 3 reasons I have a dislike for doodles and wouldn’t own one.

Reason #1 for dislike for doodles: they are homogenized – as in they all look the same! 

Image is a screen capture of Instagram under #doodledog / Stella, Luna, Ruby, Piper, Penny, Arthur (bernedoodle), Chiffon (maltipoo), Ruby (goldendoodle) and Bailey.

Looking at those cute pups above you notice how much uniformity they have. Long hair, moderate grooming, with most of the notation of their founding breeds seen in coat color & size. Sure doodles have a cute, fuzzy bear factor to them, but there isn’t much that makes them stand out from one another.

Would you be able to find the labradoodles? (#1 Stella & #9 Bailey). Could you tell who was a goldendoodle? (#8 Ruby) Can you tell each which mix each of the others are? (#2 aussiedoodle, #3 cockapoo, #4 double doodle, #5 bernedoodle, #6 bernedoodle, #7 maltipoo)

With doodles each mixture tends to look heavily poodle, which means you lose the diversity of the different breeds that are the base parent for each.  Below, each is a different type of doodle. Notice how similar they look overall. 

Also from Instagram: Mister James Hond (labradoodle), Billybow (goldendoodle), Quest (aussiedoodle), Walden (bernedoodle), Anne (sheepadoodle), Maui (cockapoo)

Whereas  look at the diversity from breed to breed from the non poodle parent. Different head shapes, ear shapes, tails shapes & lengths plus lengths of fur. Unique from breed to breed. 

Jack (lab), Maddie (golden retriever), Ollie (Australian shepherd), River (Bernese mountain dog), Noah (cocker spaniel), and Morris (old English sheepdog)

I really prefer the diversity of each different breed. Plus with mutts I love the uniqueness they can gain from their parents. Doodles, a bit too uniform for my taste.

Reason #2 dislike for doodles: they need a TON of grooming. 

Sure they don’t hardly shed, and their dander stays at a low level, but those lovely poodle genetics request that they are groomed  every 6 to 10 weeks (6-8 weeks for longer hair, 8-10 weeks for shorter hair). If not groomed in that timespan a doodles coat can become matted. Sure you could cord it (like doggie dreadlocks) though corded hair may need the same amount of maintenance. (Poodle hair never stops growing!)

In the lifespan of 10 years your doodle will make 52 to 86 trips to the groomer! With an average of $100+ per groom, you’re looking at a solid investment ($5200+ to $8600+) over your dog’s life. And grooms can be a bit intensive – pending size of your doodle, it can take 2-3+ hours for a groom, plus time can be added if your doodle is matted or a wild child (add even more time if both is true!). Don’t forget you need to also brush & comb your doodle frequently throughout the week to prevent mats. 

(This is a great article in regards of doodle grooming from Patriotic Pet Care.)

Whereas many non doodles may not need to visit a groomer as frequently or even at all depending on the dog breed and their coat. A pittie like Bender could bypass the groomer completely. A cocker spaniel and old English sheepdog may need more grooming, while a lab or golden is good weekly brushing. 

Groomers are awesome people, a dog that needs to visit them frequently just isn’t my style. 

Reson #3 dislike for doodles: they are expensive mutts

Mutts??? But…. Yes doodles are mutts. They are a pairing of two breeds but never are purebred as they don’t breed true – which is the characteristic of being able to predict how the puppies will turn out. And occasionally they are a collection of breeds in one parent (ie lab + poodle) that is bred to another doodle (ie lab + poodle) for a “double doodle”. Or its one doodle parent and one purebred parent (in researching I saw a bernadoodle + Australian  shepherd = 3 different breeds in a pup!)

A golden will always look like a golden, a lab a lab, so on and so forth. Doodles will always be variable – perhaps they look a little more poodle, perhaps they look more like the other founding breed. Coat colors are highly variable, with buff, red and black being the most frequently found. Size can vary as well, especially within minis. Health & temperament can vary greatly as well. 

Not only are doodles mutts, but they are expensive in comparison to other mutts found at humane societies and shelters. Sometimes doodles are even more expensive than their founding purebred parents.

Another concern with doodles is they don’t go through the same health standards (eyes, ears, hips & elbows etc) as purebred dogs do which lends to poorly bred doodles at a high price. 

Here are a few comparisons of pricing of doodle & parent breed breeders:
(I don’t know these breeders personally, please do your research if you are planning on adding a puppy to your family.)

Doodle breeders in Minnesota:
Timber Rock Doodles / $3500 per puppy, goldendoodles (they do health & genetic testing)
Brook Marie’s Goldendoodle Love / $2500 goldendoodles & $3500 for bernadoodles
Stone Ridge Doodles / $2800 – $3000 goldendoodles & $3600-4500 for bernadoodles

Poodle breeders in Minnesota: 
Poodles Around / $1250 – $1500 per puppy
Bunne Poodles / $1500 – $2000 per puppy
Prairiestorm Poodles / $2000 per puppy
*if you opt for a poodle, make sure they aren’t breeding doodles too!

Golden Retrievers breeders in Minnesota:
Muddy Goldens / $3250 per puppy
Tails of Gold / $2000 – $3000, pending color, parents & sex
Sharptail Ridge / $3500 per puppy

Pricing for Bernese puppies is very hard to find from Minnesota breeders as well as other breeders in the US (most have very long waiting lists) but they seem to range from $2500 – $3500+. 

Now, I do understand that reputable breeders put a TON into the health & wellness of their females as well as into the puppies so cost is justified. But for a dog that is a mixed breed mutt (sometimes even with 3+ breeds mixed in) the cost seems out of place. 

I’d rather adopt a mutt than opt for a designed expensive mutt like a doodle.  Or opt for a purebred dog at the same cost!

3 dislikes for doodles – they look the same, the need a TON of grooming and they are expensive “mutts”. All reasons why a doodle of any sort would be the “breed” for me. (I’ll still photograph the heck out of your doodle though!)

What are your thoughts on doodles? 

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3 Tips to Keep Your Dog’s Toes Cool this Summer

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The summer temps are on the way (forecast for the upcoming week are high 60s, into 70s with a peak in the 80s on Wednesday & Thursday). Which means we need to be proactive about keeping those dog toes and the dogs who own them cool! 

3 tips for keeping your dog’s toes cool on these coming dog days of summer:

(Fyi “dog days of summer” comes from when the star Sirius – the brightest star in the constellation Canis Major – rises alongside the sun in late July. The Romans believed Sirius added to the heat of the sun and when the “dog star” was around the days would be hot. Hence the coining of “dog days of summer”!)

1. Avoid asphalt!

When air temps rise in the summer, the surface temps of asphalt and concrete also rise! Which means your pup will be prone to severely sore pads of their feet, if not blisters and burns! Ouchy!

Here’s an idea of what the asphalt temperature would be on a hot day:
– air temp at 77˚ F = asphalt temp at 125˚ F
– air temp at 86˚ F = asphalt temp at 132˚ F
– air temp at 95˚ F = asphalt temp at 149˚ F
(Skin destruction can occur in 60 seconds at 125 degrees!!!)

And it’s not only asphalt that can burn your dog’s toes – concrete can easily tip beyond  100˚ F on hotter days as can brick. Sand and dirt can be a bit cooler than asphalt but can also get super toasty under toes (we’ve all been at the beach with a “hot hot hot” mantra as we scurry to the water’s edge). Grass stays the coolest, though full baking in the sun grass will be warmer than in the shade grass. 

Not sure if the surface is too hot? Place the backside of your hand on the surface. If you can keep it there for 7 seconds without getting scorched it will be ok. If you only get to a few seconds before feeling the burn, then it’s WAY TOO hot for your pup to walk on. 

On days that are 70˚ F and hotter, its best to avoid asphalt, concrete and brick especially in the middle of the day and even into the evening. Dirt, sand and grass are the best bet, though if they’ve been baking in the hot sun they may be on the too toasty side too!

2. Walk when it’s cool

From the time the sun rises to when it sets, it begins to warm the surfaces of the world. And being a constant heat source, surfaces gain and retain the heat until the sun wanes from the sky. Which means when temps pass the 70s during the summer it is best aim for walks and playtime when the day is at it’s coolest – morning and in the evening after the sun has set. 

Mornings will grant you the coolest surfaces and you may be able to enjoy the cooler surfaces for the first hour or two the sun is up. As the day heads into a later morning the temp will increase and continue increasing until the sun begins to head towards the horizon – roughly 2 hours before sunset. Air temps will drop, but surface temps will take a bit to chill from retaining heat from the day. 

Do the hand test to gauge when it’s best to walk in the evenings, it may be much later than you think! If you end up walking in evening after it’s dark out, make sure to have reflective or glowing gear for safety. 

Check out these LED collars for nighttime strolls. Or snag a reflective leash. (The links are affiliate links fyi). 

3. Break out the pool or head to the beach!

What better way to keep cool on hot days that with a dip in a body of water?

Snag a hard plastic kiddie pool (or opt for a dog friendly version that can be folded up for storage), fill it up and invite your dog in for tons of splashes and watery playtime. If your pup isn’t sure about the contained puddle of water, time to do some training! Break out the treats, reward for one foot, two foot, three foot, all four! Once your dog realizes the water isn’t all that bad, invite them to pounce on toys or balls or to splash around.  (Or opt for a sprinkler instead of a pool for a two for one benefit – your dog stays cool in the spray of the sprinkler and your grass gets a good watering too!)

Check the water in the pool frequently and replace once it starts to get muddy, gunky, full or leaves or scum. If it looks yucky, you won’t want your dog to drink or lounge in it. Dump and refresh for more watery summer fun!

Or pack up the beach towels, sunscreen and your dog and head to the beach! Tons of fun can be had running and rolling through the sand, bounding through and chasing the waves, retrieving toys from the water and so much more at the beach!  Remember the sand might be hot to your dog’s feet so you may need to carry or create a path from towels so they don’t burn their tootsies before hitting the water. 

Things to consider for a beach trip:

  • Check with your vet if your dog needs the Leptospirosis vaccine (or if they already have it). Leptospirosis is a gnarly bacteria that can make dogs super sick. It can be found in slow moving & stagnant water and comes from infected urine, which gets in the water. Dogs classically become infected when they drink infected water. Caught early on it can be treated with antibiotics, though there is risk that your dog can have kidney or liver disease. 

  • Follow the rules of the beach – stay in the areas designated for dogs and keep your dog from causing a ruckus (zoomies through sandcastles!) so everyone can enjoy the beach. Make sure you have poo bags and snag that shit asap!

  • Consider a lifejacket or long line for your pup. A lifejacket is great for all types of swimmers and will help them stay floating if they tire out or overcome by waves. A long line attaches to your dog with the end in your hands or within close reach. It allows you to reel in your dog if they start to swim out too far or you think they need a break. 
  • Bring ample towels! Depending on the size of your dog your may need a couple to get excess water off for the ride home, along with a set to line your car seats for the ride home. Roll down the windows for an air dried pup on the way home. You will want to do a rinse via the hose or in the bath when you get home to remove any sand, lake water or lake things from your dog’s fur. 

Huzzah! 3 awesome ways to keep your dog’s toes cool as the spring heads into the dog days of summer! 

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5 Tips to Enhance Your Composition with Frames

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Enhance your dog photography composition with these framing tips!

First off, what is framing? 

Framing, aka frame within a frame, is a method of composition that uses various elements in scene to create a frame around your subject. This creates a sense of depth and draws your viewer’s eye KA-POW right to the subject of your image!

Sure you could go willy nilly and frame every subject but the best practice is to ask: Does this image benefit from having a frame around the subject? Does it make the composition stronger? If not, then pass on adding the frame. 

Onward!

5 tips for framing:

  1. Frame with manmade objects
    Windows, doors, chairs, literal picture frames, bridges, etc – if it’s manmade you can use it to frame a dog. Get creative with your framing! Use chairs, the legs of a table, pillows, blankets, dog beds or head to a playground for TONS of framing opportunities. The list of manmade items to use for framing is vast!

    * When using a window or door to frame your dog (if they’re inside looking out), you may end up with silhouetted image with a bright background. Two workarounds: shift from shooting straight on to a slight sideways angle to turn the backlight into sidelight. Or step outside and capture your dog framed by the window as he looks out. The light will be even front light. 


     
  2. Frame with natural objects
    Trees, rocks, grass, flowers, logs, anything in nature can be utilized. Tiny & small dogs can be framed by big bloomed flowers, while big dogs can be framed by trees or rocks. Or use YOUR dog as the frame! Their paws can frame toys, treats or lovely fall leaves. You could use dog ears and tails too!



  3. Frame with people! 
    That’s right use people to frame your dog! Arms in a hug or clasped together above your dog will create a cool frame. Legs create awesome frames if your pup is tucked at your feet or standing between two people. 



  4. Frame with shadow
    An abstract way to create a frame is to use shadow to frame your dog. Shadows are cast from objects when there is ample light available. In the morning and evening shadows will be long and stretched out, while midday shadows will be crisp and small (barely farther from underfoot). Look for shadows that create a pattern and put your dog in the non shadow part of the pattern.



  5. Frame with out of focus elements
    An out of focus element is a cool way to add a frame to your dog’s image. And the possibilities of what the abstract element is are crazy vast! Grass, leaves, touches of color from flowers, steps, sidewalks and dirt paths. Narrow depth of field will help aid you with this.
    * Create your own out of focus elements with leaves, grass or flowers. Hold them on the edge of your frame close to the end of your lens. Being really close to the lens and your focus being farther out on your dog, the element will blur. Use the color to create a cool out of focus frame around your dog. 

Some other notes: The frame does NOT have to go all the way around your dog! The frame can have 3 sides, 2 sides or even one! Plus frames don’t have to be straight! 

In sum 5 tips for framing:

  • Frame with manmade objects
  • Frame with natural objects
  • Frame with people! 
  • Frame with shadow
  • Frame with out of focus elements

Which framing elements will you incorporate into your images?

We’re in a blog ring composed of awesome dog photographers from around the world. Next up: BARKography by Kim Hollis in Charlotte NC talks about her 3 most popular framed wall art options.

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