Yes, your reactive or shy dog can have a photography session and look like an EPIC superstar!
I get it. Your dog isn’t the meet everyone type. New people are scary, new dogs are scary, new places are overwhelming and it can send them into anxiety quickly.
In the past, I essentially understood it. Mick & Icey were personable with dogs & people, Axle was overly excited in meeting other dogs but fine with people, Bender was fine with people but particular about other dogs.
Then there is Blue.
From the onset, this dude has been shy. He growled and nipped at incoming hands, telling those “awww he’s so cute” people to bugger off. He got bigger and the shyness manifested in big Swissy barks, hackles up, hard eyes and body language that fully says f*ck off. Though only when those people want to directly interact with him. If we pass them while walking, its more of a growl at worst, casual sniffing and gawking at best.
If they want to say hi, he says “nope, f*ck off buddy” and if there is eye contact, conversation, a reach to pet that handsome tri-color head at a pace that isn’t Blue’s, then well he might just take off a finger. Oh, did I mention he wants to do his scary introductions within your arm’s reach, with ample crotch sniffing? And he has the audacity to tell you to bugger off when HE is in your personal bubble. Yup, he’s that dog.
To meet new people, he is now muzzled.
At home with his people, he’s a doofus. He poses for the camera like a pro and makes me laugh with his various antics. He isn’t a bad dog, just uncomfortable with meeting new people and new dogs.
I’ve learned even more about dog body language and behavior from him, which gives me even more skill to work with your dog.
If you have a reactive dog or shy or anxious here’s how a session will go:
- The consult call – tell me about your dog’s personality, what her threshold distance is for meeting people, how does she prefer to be greeted. Do we need to avoid other dogs or people or both? (There are locations we can tap into that will be quiet, and both dog & human free.)
- The session – we meet. Depending on who your dog is will be how I greet her. Shy & anxious dogs I’ll kneel down, eyes averted, turned sideways to minimize being big, scary and threatening. I won’t touch her, just allow her to sniff me and figure out who I am. For the reactive bite your ass types, we won’t get close enough to do sniffs unless she is muzzled. Still no touching. Then we stroll. We can walk with ample space between us so your dog feels comfortable.
- I’ve got a plethora of lenses, though I will aim for long lenses only for reactive dogs. Plenty of space so your dog doesn’t feel like I’m intruding on her bubble. For shy & anxious dogs, long lenses will be employed for the most part of the session, wider angle lenses only swapped to if she feels comfortable being closer to me (where the treats will be!)
- We will take our time to make sure your dog is comfortable. If we want a pose, it will always be an ask, and if it doesn’t happen, then I’ll work with what she gives me.
- When your dog is done, we are done. We’ll head back to the car, do show & tell of the products and depart. You’ll be wowed by her images!
What are things you can do to prepare for your session if your dog is reactive, shy or anxious?
Visit the location we will be going to before your session, or at the least before the start of your session. Let your dog sniff and explore, get the excitement & anxiety out before we start. (10 mins of sniffing is like an hour of exercise!)
Break out the highest value treats you have. Slices of cheese, lunchmeat, cooked chicken, liver pate – bring the treat that is smelly and the biggest reward, the one you don’t train with everyday. Reward the behaviors you appreciate – use a clicker or marker word like “yes”, then give the reward. Is she sitting nicely without a fuss? Mark & reward. Loose body language? Mark & reward. Practice before the session if you can.
Learn your dog’s triggers, thresholds and body language. For thresholds, how close can a new person get before they are scary? Also, if they aren’t close but in vision for a duration, does your dog stay calm or become worried, even though the new person isn’t approaching? For triggers, is it cars, people, dogs, birds, long grass or something else that could send your dog into a bout of worry. If you know these we can work to minimize triggers, which then keeps your dog under the threshold of scary.
Body language of your dog is going to be a huge thing to learn before the session.
Watch ears – how do they sit when alert, relaxed or stressed? Tail carriage with body tension with body tension being key. Low tucked tails are indicators of shy, nervous and under confident dogs, wagging tails with loose bodies is typically a happy dog, and wagging tail low with light body tension is typically a signal of anxiousness. Wagging tails can also go along with dogs who are aiming to tell the scary thing to f*ck off, though they are usually held high & stiff with only the tip wagging. There also may not be any tail wagging in the over threshold, reactive dogs. Eyes & mouths can also give indicators of stress, anxiety level and if we are headed towards bypassing your dog’s threshold.
If you understand these nuances, then you can educate me on them and together we can create an EPIC fun filled session with your dog!
So yes your reactive, shy & anxious dog CAN have a photography session & look EPIC!
Ready to get EPIC portraits of your reactive, shy & anxious dog? Email or call or text 320.309.2893 to schedule your consultation call today!